Ruling out Vac Meatalising - Again! Paint tests and Base Making

Whilst working on another project for a friend I asked if he happened to know of anyone who did vac Metallising as I had been unsuccessful in getting a company to do the job for me. I suspect this has been due to the unusual nature of the job and the fact it was a one off as opposed to a mass production job as vac metallised parts often are. Anyway, I he said he thought he knew someone who could help at 'The Wheel Specialist' whom work with the process for use on Recoating Alloy wheels for cars. I was hopeful they would be helpful given recommendation of my friend and the really were helpful. Unfortunately they can't do the job. It comes down to the materials being too soft to withstand the constant 205degree heat that parts have to endure during the process. Normally they only work with metal parts that can stand the heat and weren’t prepared to try it with the risk of damaging the piece. I couldn’t agree more at this point as I think I would have a breakdown if the pieces came out as a molten golden mess. Either way the contact was useful and they are well worth noting for future projects. www.thewheelspecialist.co.uk

Having ruled out vac metallising again I got straight into paint samples. I bought Plastikote Brilliant gold and Clear Super Lacquer, Halfords 'Ford Solar Gold' and Clear Lacquer as well as another lacquer made by the 'Rust-Oleum' Brand gold I have been using.

 The Plasikote was by far the most convincing gold coat when sprayed (top left above) but as feared lost its shine when lacquer (above top middle). The change was unbelievable and cannot be used. Upon reading the small print on the Plastikote cans it does state that using a top coat will dull the shine - it doesn’t say change it completely though!

Lauren later informed me there was a specially formulated Plastikoat Lacquer available for metallic finishes available from Hobbycraft. To be honest I sort of lost my faith in Plastikote after the change in the spray finish so I forgot about it for a day to see how heat (from the radiator) would affect the durability of the paint after a longer cure time. Having had a couple of day's drying time I decided I don’t actually like the gold colour the Plasitikote produces. It is shiny for sure but too deep in relation to the bright gold I want for the Oscar.

Secondly (above top right) I tried the Halfords Ford Solar Gold with Halfords Clear Lacquer. Whilst this finish was consistent and smooth the colour for far too dull and I ruled it out immediately. The lacquer however was really good and seems highly durable.

Thirdly I tried the Rust-Oleum Gold (Bottom Left Above) which turned out really well. Having used the previously mentioned lacquers on 2 (Bottom Left and Middle Above) I was surprised to find that using the Rust-Oleum brand made a vast difference (Bottom Right Above) and I must admit I didn’t think it would at all but they’re tips are accurate! I decided that this finish is good enough for what I want and is more than durable enough for constant handling. Hopefully it will be myself doing the handling the majority of the time which will mean a lighter touch when handling it! 

I intend to leave each coat to cure for at least a day to ensure it does not easily run or get flawed by touch.

As well as painting I began constructing the 'film reel' base that is featured on the Oscar Statuette (Above). I drew up the approximate size on Rhino and transferred drawing to be laser cut from MDF (above) to save on the costs of using Acrylic. The main downside to this is the finishing process will take time to get right but I think I am on doing alright for time as the moment. Spacing out the two parts with supports I put a styrene strip around the gap which has become irregular with sanding and needs to be uniformed this week with either filler or thicker styrene over the top. All in all I think I can safely say I have a lot more sanding to do!